The Tao of Gaming

Um Krone und Kragen & robustness


I just thought I'd mention I'm playing uKuK ("Uck-Uck") on BSW time these days. That I'm playing it at all (online) impresses me. After all, my first game took 30 minutes, as compared to 5-10 minutes (for two player). The GUI routinely thwarts my plans. (I think I've figured out the Alchemist, finally).

But now that the game takes 10-15 minutes, the "Online penalty" isn't bad. Granted, most games are faster online, but there you have it.

I've played about 25 games now (half online), I still have the gut feeling that "Racing to the Feldherr" still works, but I've started to win a few games where I don't get it, and lose a few where I do. I can't admit that the game is balanced (otherwise I'd have to give up my Game Critic's card), but it's not just a race. I'm certainly going to get this when it shows up.

Does BSW have all of the rules right? I thought that you couldn't take the Ritter/Bischof dice (etc) and roll them on the first roll? But I got rules wrong on this all the time. uKuK is a remarkably robust game, in wrong details wrong seem to the gameplay. I suppose 'fault tolerant' might be better.

A fair number of games are fault tolerant (at least to the level of mistakes I seem to be making ... no major rules wrong, but minor details), but a fair number of games seem to just fall apart. Of course, now that I'm typing this I can't think of them offhand, but I distinctly remember being on both sides of the following conversation:

"I don't like Game X" "Why not?" "Oh, it's too simple. You just Flarf the Garnax." "You do know you can only Flarf once per turn?" "Oops."

I've played uKuK under at least three sets of rules (an initial set, another set after asking Tom some questions, and the BSW set) and it works reasonably well in all three.

Just in case you think the Feldherr is too powerful (and I'm sympathetic to that), here's the "Feldherr reduction variant"

The Feldherr's two dice are a different color (you'll need two more dice for this). You must set aside at least one Feldherr die on the first roll.

Dave Arnott:
> Does BSW have all of the rules right? I thought that
> you couldn't take the Ritter/Bischof dice (etc) and
> roll them on the first roll?

This is incorrect on BSW... sorta. Because yes, according to Tom you cannot bring those dice out for your very first roll... but, that's not what it says in the English translation of the German rules. Or at least the English translation currently floating around.

Now, this might not be the fault of the translation - the German rules may also be "incorrect" in this regard... I don't know. I suspect they are, since, I would assume, BSW went off of those and not the English rules.

So it's either a publisher error... or a redesign :)


-Dave
5.28.2006 2:44am
Tom Lehmann (mail) (www):
The Amigo rules have a "tip" which implies that you can roll dice from the Bishop, etc. as part of your first turn roll, which BSW has implemented. This was not my intent and contrary to what my submitted rules stated.

Shortly after UK&K's publication, Amigo contacted me to clarify this point. I don't know what official errata, if any, has been issued by Amigo, but this was an error in translation, not a deliberate change on their part.

Rio Grande is working from my original rules in preparing the forthcoming English version of UK&K, "To Crown a King".

Going for lots of dice in UK&K is certainly strong, but often loses in the final roll-off to a player who has one fewer die but better control cards. How many control cards and when do you take them is subject to group think; some groups push the pace faster than others.

The Feldherr (Warlord)'s two extra dice to roll *is* a potent lure, but if someone simply goes for six dice as fast as possible to get a chance for it, they will often fail to obtain it due to lack of control, further complicating the decision of when to push for dice versus control cards.

One approach is to use your "double turn" when going last and then first to take a control card and then use it to obtain a dice card on your second turn.

A player who has already "lost" a turn due to getting a Jester faces more pressure to get the Feldherr to make up lost ground, but can afford to play for variance more freely than other players, since a complete failure will produce a Charlatan die.

The final two complicating issues in all this are that some control cards work better in combination with each other and that being the first to claim the King has its advantages as well. Often, the first time you roll six of a kind, you also roll a seven of a kind: do you take the King or the Warlord?

I'm glad you are enjoying the game. One of the design challenges I faced with it was making it robust both in the face of different play styles and someone who just gets plain unlucky early on.

Your Warlord variation is interesting. I'm by no means convinced it is needed, though.
5.30.2006 8:54pm
Brian (www):
I'm not convinced my Warlord fix is needed either, but I figure I can play that way if someone thinks it is with little problem. As I said, I'm at 25 plays and still thinking about it. There are interesting tactical decisions (during a roll) but the "what character should I be aiming for" decisions are wide open.

Right now the only thing I'm noting is that the two '1st tier' control characters rarely get selected (in a 2 player game). [These are the 'odd' or 'even' ones]. I'd certainly take them before a jester, but I want my fourth die ASAP. (Preferably a non-bauer die, as the 4th die makes the bauer relatively easy to get). Assuming my opponent cooperates, I'm very fond of extra die, extra die, astronomer. That's usually enough to aim for the Jager, Ritter, Bishop and Fieldherr. But the "When to grab the King" does matter. And certainly the Hoffdam, Edelman combination is potent. Lots of interesting things going on, and I'll be purchasing this in June (according to Rio Grande Game's schedule). I wonder if BSW will be implementing your real rules ...
5.30.2006 11:05pm
Dave Arnott:
Well, as long as we're talking about it...

I think the Bishop is too easy to get, and the Hoffdam and Edelman are essentially the same, so taking one or the other is kind of a coin toss. As much as I think the game is exactly the right length, I sometimes wish it would go on longer, just so I could explore more card combinations. As it is, in a 3+ player game, I've rarely seen anyone with 2 non-dice cards have much of a chance, which is a shame. Unless, as you said, group-think allows everyone to get 2 non-dice cards. (I'm not counting the Queen here, by the way) 3 non-dice cards..? Can't imagine you'd have any hope. And because of this, the Zaurauber (sp?) is almost never used as anything other than another Astronomer - I don't know why this bugs me, but it does.

Having said that, I really like the game - liked it as Royal Advancement, have played it 66 times as UK&K.

Possible Expansion Cards...

Modified Feldherr: gives you two dice, but after 1st roll, you must return any 1 die back to card. Or, you could treat it like a die-card: two dice on it (set to no number). Can't come out for 1st roll. When used, both dice are added to next roll, but any one die must go back on card afterwards.

Modified Edelmann: Allows you to add and/or subtract 1 to any number of rolled dice. If that's too powerful... but at the cost of having to add a "locked" die to the next roll (i.e. rerolling a die you've already put aside).

Modified Astronomer: allows you to match one rolled die to another *rolled* die, not one that's "locked." This would also give the Zaurauber a little bump, as it would now be the only "real" Astronomer. Plus, the choice of going for the small straight (and not X of a kind) might be more interesting.

New Character: after you've set aside at least three dice, you can, after you roll, "clear your board" - bring all "locked" dice into the current roll, set at least one aside (as normal), and then roll all remaining dice.
5.31.2006 9:23am
Dave Arnott:
Forgot to add:

One of the reasons the Bishop is so easy (too easy, say I), is that it doesn't require three *different* pairs, though even that seems easier to get with 6 dice than, say, five-of-a-kind.

Ditto the Astronomer. Anything that makes you consider *not* going for X-of-a-kind makes the game more interesting, I think.
5.31.2006 9:29am
Tom Lehmann (mail) (www):
Hi Dave, glad you're enjoying the game!

I agree with your overall point that having more divergent routes (than X of a kind) to obtaining more dice would be a Good Thing, but I disagree with you that the Bishop is the right place to do this.

The Bishop is certainly quite powerful, given the ease of getting it. And, you can often try for the Warlord (Feldherr) and then abort to the Bishop if your dice don't cooperate. I think this is a desirable property.

Two of my overall design principles are: provide interesting choices/hard decisions (as a corollary, remove false decisions) and reduce player frustration.

In a dice rolling game, you are already courting player frustration -- since sometimes, a player will simply get unlucky. So, there are a lot of places in UK&K where I've made various design decisions to handle the case where a player has fallen behind due to bad luck.

One of them is to try to provide some catch-up. The Jester/Charlatan is part of this story, but only a part, since otherwise, a player who falls behind would be permanently behind either a die or ~1/2 a control card (the Jester) relative to the other players. So, one of the reasons the Warlord exists is to provide catch-up (I'm not thrilled about Brian's proposed variant because I think it weakens this).

(Another reason the Warlord exists is texture; having to think about the Warlord as the game progresses means that UK&K doesn't just feel like "more of the same" as you work up from Group I to V; instead you have to think about Group IV differently than Groups II and III and decide how rapidly you want to advance to Group IV. The Astronomer is a very good control card in Group II, which is fairly easy to get, to sharpen the choice between going for rapid dice advancement and stopping to grab a control card.)

So, suppose a player is behind on dice due to having taken more control cards than the other players (we'll tackle the Jester case below), and then single-mindedly obtains dice and now has six dice to roll/bring into play. Further suppose that the only dice card below Group IV left that his player doesn't own is the MoneyLender (Pfandleiher); this can be tricky to get on six dice if one is going for six 3s, say, to make use of a Hunter (Jaeger).

To catchup, this player tries for a Warlord. If he or she fails -- getting four 3s and two 5s after using control cards, say -- and the rules were different so that this can't buy a Bishop, tplayer frustration occurs ("I'm behind on dice, so I'm trying to catch-up, and now I'm even further behind. Stupid game."). By often being able to abort to a Bishop, a player can stay in the game and hope that a Warlord will still be available next turn.

And the Bishop is a very good card to have when trying for the Warlord (or King), since going for 6s with seven dice enables an easy abort to the Moneylender if the dice don't cooperate and you believe you still need more dice.

But, of course, the rub in any such catch-up scheme is whether it becomes a "rich-gets-richer" mechanism as well.

Suppose the leading player has six dice and the Astronomer and comes down to 3-3-3-3 (set aside) and 4-5 (just rolled) when trying for the Warlord. This player could use the Astronomer to make the 4 or 5 into a 3 and then take a 1/6 shot at getting the Warlord. Typically, this player will either take a second control card or use the Astronomer to pair up the 4 or 5 and take a Bishop. Having the Bishop as a easy "fail-safe" deters this player from taking a final 1/6 shot for the Warlord (and 1/6 shots do come in, sometimes!). So, this feature tends to preserve Warlords for players who either have more control cards left (and thus are more likely to take a higher % shot) or for players who are way behind and willing to go for a high variance, low odds chance.

For example, consider the player who has six dice and a Jester and gets down to 3-3-3-3 (set aside) and 4-5 (just rolled). Why not use the Jester and reroll one of these dice? You have only a 1/36 chance of getting the Warlord but you also have an additional 10/36 chance of getting a Bishop. And, if you fail, your Jester turns into a Charlatan giving you a seventh die, which keeps you in the game. (Some outcomes will also give you a choice between a decent control card and keeping the Jester or taking the Charlatan.)

So, that's a long answer as to why the Warlord and Bishop were designed the way they are. Does this make sense?

Now, hopefully, UK&K will succeed well enough that an expansion can be put out. And, in the expansion (with some custom dice) that I'm currently playtesting, there's another dice card in Group IV: the Aristocrat, which requires a pair of 4s, a pair of 5s, and a pair of 6s to claim and which gives an extra 4,4,5,5,6,6 custom die to roll. Does this seem interesting?

The approach to making the game longer used in my proposed expansion is to add more unique Group V characters (Prince, Princess, Chancellor, Steward, etc.) as well. The King is still seven in a row to claim, but players may decide to hold off on claiming it to take one of these characters first, to gain improved chances in the final roll-off...
5.31.2006 8:27pm
Brian (www):
In two player, the Warlord doesn't appear to be a catch up card ... the lead player will always grab it given a chance. It can't be a catch up card if it's gone. But I'll agree that it's probably easier for the 6 dice + control to take it instead of 7 dice (and the 6+control 'fails gracefully', as you point out).

It does serve as catchup, in that a trailing player can 'swing for the fences' at it, but given the number of reasonable fallbacks, the leading player can too. After all, if I fail and grab the Ritter/Jager/etc, then that card (an extra die!) is missing for the other player and makes their failure riskier...

In a 3+ player game, that may not be true.

My preferred progression is:
Die,
Astronomer
Die
Die,
Try for the Warlord. If my three dice are the 1-2-3, then I'm rolling 3 dice. If I get a 1, 2, or 3 on the opening roll (7/8ths), then I set it aside, pickup the non-matching dice and go. Depending on what cards are there, I still have very reasonable backups in the Ritter or Bishop.

Of course, this depends on the Astronomer.... who is my early focus.

I'm sure there are other combos, but there you have it. The 2nd player can get the astronomer first ... and can take the fifth roll to get a 7th dice then take the Warlord. If the astronomer is still around after the 2nd players first two goes, the 1st player can do die/astronomor in either order.
5.31.2006 8:52pm
Tom Lehmann (mail) (www):
Brian, hmmm... I mostly try not to discuss play strategy for my games in much detail as I think most players want to discover strategies for themself and that I, as designer, shouldn't bias this too much.

The Serving Maid (Disentmagd) and Philosopher exist mostly as alternatives to the Jester, as you surmise. But, if I'm going last (about to take two turns in a row) in a non 2-player game, I sometimes take the Serving Maid on my first turn and then a dice card on my second. If you're aiming for more 4s, 5s, or 6s, the Serving Maid is 2/3 an Astronomer and often more flexible when combined with the Alchemist in the end-game. This isn't as good a combo as Wizard/Alchemist, but I get to use the Serving Maid in the meantime.

(Wizard and Alchemist tends to be much stronger than Astronomer and Alchemist in the end game. That's where the subtle differences between the Wizard and Astronomer show up the most.)

I've seen a starting Philospher win before, but I think it's often wasted until you have five or six dice. The counter-argument is that Philosopher and Astronomer together are two easy to get control cards that synergize well when making N-of-a-kind and will often enable you to get a Warlord as soon as you get six dice. If other players are taking either just dice or only one control card and are often failing to get the Warlord on their first try, then this strategy can work.

The balance of dice versus control cards is partly group think.

In my experience with "dice-centric" strategies, all dice often loses to one control card and dice. Two control cards and the Warlord will typically beat one control card and no Warlord. Two control cards and no Warlord will often lose to the all dice player. Scissors-Paper-Rocks, where much depends on the actual timing and, of course, luck. The two player game is somewhat different from the three and four player game, though, due to better fall back plans involving still available Group I dice cards in the two player game and more contention for the Group II-IV cards.
5.31.2006 9:04pm
Tom Lehmann (mail) (www):
2-player UK&K also revolves around group-think with regard to gaining dice or control cards. When your opponent either craps out or "breaks" for a control card, do you break for one yourself or try to pile on more dice? If you break for a control card in response, does your opponent then break for another control card, and so on. Both players can be watching the dice and Warlord carefully and still be growing at one control card and one dice card each turn by managing the parity.

Alternatively, one player can decide to push for dice and then the other player must mostly respond in kind, possibly breaking once for a control card.

In "dice-centric" two player games of UK&K, the second player tends to set the pace. The first player can't get to the Warlord until his or her third set of turns, while the second player can potentially take a shot on his or her second set of turns:

Player 1
D D/D W?/W?

Player 2
D/D D/W?

But, if player 2 stops for the Astronomer, then Player 1
can take first try at the Warlord with a control card:

Player 1
D D/D C/W?

Player 2
D/A D/D

Knowing this, Player 1 can push the control card back a
round:

Player 1
D C/D D/W?

Player 2
D/A D/D

Alternatively, Player 1 can decide to go just for dice,
hoping to take both the Bishop and the Warlord.

Player 1
D D/D B?/W?

Player 2
D/A D/D

If Player 1 does this and gets the Bishop but misses the Warlord (not unlikely with seven dice and no control), taking, say, the Moneylender instead, then Player 2 can opt to take a second control card and one shot at the Warlord or two shots at the Warlord:

Player 1:
D D/D B/M

Player 2:
D/A D/D C/W?

If this succeeds, then Player 2 has 8 dice, Astronomer, and another Control card versus Player 1's 8 dice and no control cards. If player 1 takes the King, then player 1 has 9 dice without control but wins ties. Which position would you rather have?
5.31.2006 9:55pm
Brian (www):
I like Player 2 in that situation.

In any case, after another half dozen games I'm still mellowing on the Warlord. I mean, I wouldn't turn it down, but I'm seeing plenty of games where he doesn't win, but keeps it close. I just had a BSW game where my opponent got hofnarr'ed early on, and I got a die, then rolled two pair to grab the astronomer. I could practically hear "Noooo!!!" from across the continent. But he grabbed dice and took the luck shot at the Warlord and got it. I still won, but it wasn't a sure thing after the first set of rolls, and I rolled perfect against a crap out. That's impressive.

I'm quite happy as player 2 to take the astronomer, and then just grab as many dice as possible. The other controls aren't as good (in that you don't have them for the early game to make your rolls safer). Although, your point about the serving maid is well taken.

In any case, I'm personally a "One control card" player, although if I stumble into the Hoffdame (+1 to any dice) then the Edelmann (+2 to any dice) is a strong pickup.
6.1.2006 10:10pm
Tom Lehmann (mail) (www):
Hoffdame/Edelmann in combination can be very strong.

But, they do reverse one of the game heuristics -- namely, when trying for N of kind M, to bring all non-M dice in after your first roll (keeping any Ms aside for rerolls), in order to maxmize your chance of rolling an M.

If you do the math, you'll discover that you shouldn't bring in any dice that can be turned into an M, as while this approach does decrease your chance of rolling at least one M, it increases the odds that you roll no dice that you can't turn into M.

(If you do crap out and have to use one of the cards, this heuristic then flips back to the normal one.)
6.3.2006 8:41am